Preserving Paradise

  • BLENDING: Pimalai Resort’s southern-style bungalows are tucked inside trees.

  • COLOURS OF THE SEA: The Andaman sea offers spectacular diving and snorkling treats.

  • FUTURE GENERATION: The sea gypsy girls of Koh Lanta.

The locals on a piece of island called Koh Lanta in Thailand are grafting eco-sensitive tourism on to roots of natural beauty.

It has many clean, broad and relatively isolated beaches ensuring the ‘getaway from it all’ atmosphere that so many coming to Thailand are seeking.

As Thailand’s tourism industry is allowed to ravage precious islands and beaches as if they were common coal mines, a group of natives and hoteliers on Koh Lanta in the Andaman Sea in Thailand are trying to ensure that the pristine quality of their island home can survive for generations to come with minimal impact on the environment. They only need to look at the mistakes made on their sister island, Phi Phi Don. Word-of-mouth, and later, guidebooks, spread the message that Phi Phi Don was the crown jewel of Krabi, the place to experience the beauty and tranquillity of Thailand’s natural seashores. No more. The island’s geographical uniqueness—the crescent twin bays with white sandy beaches—has been transformed. It now resembles more of a tourism slum, a concrete jungle with guesthouses, shops and bars all crammed between its once pristine bays.

"Pimalai is racking up awards both domestically and internationally for its commitment to environmental stewardship."

“We’ve watched the natural environment change in Pattaya, Patong, and especially our next door neighbour, Koh Phi Phi Don. We just know we must save Lanta,” says Paninart Tiyaphorn, who with her family and friends built Pimalai Resort and Spa on Koh Lanta seven years ago. “This is the last piece of pristine beauty in Thailand.”

The name Lanta came from ‘laan-ta’, meaning ‘stunning view’, says Satta Nukaew, a member of the Cultural and Heritage Team of Lanta. The island is known as a backpackers’ paradise, with its many clean, broad and relatively isolated beaches ensuring the ‘getaway from it all’ atmosphere that so many coming to Thailand are seeking.

This ambience is slowly changing, causing many to fear that Lanta may be the next domino to fall victim to the tourism steamroller. Hotels and upmarket resorts have begun replacing budget thatch-roofed bungalows, but so far, Lanta’s laid-back peaceful charm still prevails.

“But if we don’t do anything to preserve this, irresponsible and money-driven tourism will take away our homes,” says Somboon Changnam, a sea gypsy community leader of Koh Lanta. “Over the past few decades we’ve watched how our sea gypsy brothers and sisters were forced off Phi Phi because there was no shoreline left for their homes and boats. The cost of living has also reached a point where few natives can afford to remain.”

Witnessing how tourism has uprooted local people from their homes, communities on Koh Lanta have decided they must put down deeper roots on the island if they are to survive. They first have to educate local youngsters to be proud of who they are and where they come from by establishing a living museum and cultural centre in the community.

“Lanta is home to three cultures: the indigenous sea gypsies, the Chinese and Muslims. All have blended in nicely and co-exist peacefully,” says local historian Vinai Ukris, also a member of Lanta’s Culture and Heritage Team. “The island is on an ancient trade route between India and China and travellers have long been attracted to settle here by the abundant natural resources.”

Subsistence livelihoods have prevailed on Lanta for generations and are largely the reason much of the island remains in its pristine condition. Paninart was well aware of this from the start. When tourism began finding its way to Lanta, her team wanted to ensure their Pimalai Resort complemented, and did not overrun, the pristine environment which now makes the island one of the last jewels left for Thailand’s beach-going tourists.

“Pimalai’s concept is not to compete with nature but rather to blend in,” Paninart says. “There was no cutting of trees during construction and that rule remains today. Our southern-style bungalows have so much space between them partly because we have to protect those trees. We want to keep everything that nature gives us.”

Indeed,the resort is barely noticeable as you approach it from the sea. Beyond ensuring Pimalai guests enjoy the feeling of a resort tucked away in a tropical forest, Paninart is quick to point out the vital roles the trees play in preventing landslides during the monsoon season when massive amounts of water flow down the mountains.

The roots of Pimalai’s commitment to the island and the community run much deeper, however. The resort is equipped with its own state-of-the-art water-treatment system. Two reservoirs store rainwater to avoid depleting groundwater aquifers that play a vital role as the primary water source for many in the community. A full-scale recycling operation is now underway as is a nursery to help support the native landscaping.

“We want to set ourselves apart as a model for responsible business,” Paninart says. “We try very hard to educate neighbouring resorts on the value of nature. We train our staff, most of whom are from Lanta, to give priority to environmental protection. We also work with local schools to teach children here the concept of nature conservation.”

Their quiet efforts have not gone unnoticed. Pimalai is racking up awards both domestically and internationally for its commitment to environmental stewardship. Such adulation is not something they’ve sought, merely a reflection of a long-standing commitment to the island they hope that others will share.

Lanta’s community leader Somboon has similar hopes. He believes local efforts to protect the island’s environmental and cultural heritage can hopefully convince others that tourism revenue should not come at too high a price to the environment.

“We want to keep Lanta a heaven for our community and a paradise for visitors,” Somboon says. (By NANTIYA TANGWISUTIJIT in Krabi/ The Nation/ AsiaNews)

MySinchew 2008.03.23